London- Part 2

MUSEUMS

One can’t write of museums in London without mentioning the incredible policy of free admittance.   If one subscribes to the philosophy, as we do, that human capital is the greatest resource a country can have, and that the education of those humans is in the best interest of everyone in that country, then it makes sense that all people would be welcome to explore and learn in the magnificent museums that call London home.  I especially love that with just an hour of free time, one can just meander into a museum without a huge commitment of money, one can appreciate the art without worrying about the commitment of time. .  

One of the most magnificent collections of antiquity art in the world is housed in The British Museum.   In addition to the traveling exhibits, one can see the most comprehensive collection of Egyptian and Persion artifacts dating back thousands of years that likely exists in any single collection.  I can’t help but make special note of some of one collection of artifacts that has been in the news a great deal:  The famed Elgin Marbles.  

The above images were taken at the British Museum

Some of what follows is taken from “ Lord Elgin in athensguide.com. “ and some from the British Museum and our tours of the Acropolis in Athens.  

Lord Elgin, as ambassador to the Ottoman Empire, spent alot of   time sketching what were believed to be the “best examples of Classical architecture in the world”, and had hoped to bring these models back to England to inform future buildings.  It is widely disputed how exactly the “marbles” came to end up in England.  The British museum claims that it was with permission and for the benefit of the precious artifacts themselves that they be brought back to England.  The other story is that late into the dead of night, this Caryatid was chiseled away from her post where she stood with her 5 sisters.  The debate continues and has been elevated to current affairs with the Prime Ministers from Greece and the UK refusing even to see each other if this topic is to come up.  While it has been my position that disputed provenance of country treasures should error on the side of the country of origin.  Indeed, having been to both the acropolis and the Athens museum where the remaining Caryatids remain, I believe that this stunning sculpture should be reunited with her “sisters”.  Polls indicate that most UK citizens agree with me.  But in a shout out the the amazing museums in London, not just the British Museum but also the Tate Modern, the Victoria and Albert, the Science and the Natural History museums, the National Gallery and the Guildhall and many Im missing – ARE ALL FREE!  Anyone may walk through the doors and meander for as long or short as they wish at no cost whatsoever.  Of course, if one wishes to donate money to this amazing enterprise, donations are graciously accepted.  But donations are not compulsory which makes art and history available to EVERYONE regardless of financial ability to pay.  This makes the case for England protecting treasures rather than trying to profit from them a bit more credible.  And bravo for the UK for having such a policy.    Entrance into the acropolis is about 20 Euro.   There is also a fee for the museum – which is absolutely their right.  But I just want to point out that the British museum charges no admittance to see any of the precious artifacts in their collection regardless of citizenship, age, or ability to pay.   Here are some photos of the famed Elgin Marbles…   

The photos of the original Caryatids above with the lovely Tracy are the original Caryatids in the museum in Athens. They were once where the replicas are displayed on the right at the Acropolis. The center photo with Jack and our guide is a lego reproduction including Lord Elgin chiseling the caryatids from the temple. The lego is a gift donated to the Athens museum from Australia.

The National Gallery is an absolute must stop in Trafalgar Square.  The collection of Renaissance and Impressionist art is extraordinary.  Van Gogh, Titian, Rembrandt, Ruben and the list goes on.  Again, free to browse the collection of art, all are welcome!  

Never a big fan of modern art, we explored the Tate Modern Museum for a short while and we I enjoyed seeing several Lichtenstein and a few other thought provoking exhibits, overall the exhibits were not really my cup of tea.  Below are some photos.   I must confess, Im also not a fan of the architecture of the museum. In fact, when I went looking for photos, I realized I never took any for this very reason.

Alec spent the day visiting The Science museum, always a favorite.  There he said that they charged a 5£ admission – and the last time I went I thought they charged some small fee also.  But when my niece and her BF went, they were not charged – so it may be “day dependent”.  In any case, if you like science, you will love this amazing museum. 

The Museum of Natural History is extraordinary!  I wish we knew that the schools were on half term break because I have never been in a more crowded museum but what a great thing that these kiddos were enjoying their break from school in, of all places, the museum!  

Established in 1881, the building is one of the finest in London and shares the famed “Exhibition Row” in south Kensington with the Science Museum and the Victoria and Albert Museum.

Over 80 million specimens are exhibited here including the most comprehensive collection of dinosaur bones we have ever seen.  Included in the collection are the remains of a magnificent blue whale.   

One simply cannot see all of the museums in London on a single visit but whichever you choose, you are sure to be amazed.     

A couple of ways to get a bird eye view of the amazing city of London is, of course, the London Eye.  We did this with Tracy and Jen when they were here with us in 2019 but when we tried to take Kelly a few weeks ago, it was closed for maintenance.  But, on a budget and free for those who plan, the Sky Garden is a wonderful way to get a view of the city and enjoy a cup of coffee.   For more information go to www.skygarden.london  From there you can book free tickets, but you must book your free tickets a few weeks.  Alternatively, you can book a table at one of the restaurants at the top.  

View of the Shard taken from the Sky Garden above and taken from the Tower Bridge below.

Probably for me, the prettiest modern building in London is the Shard.  It is decorated with lights celebrating the holidays or the coronation or any other thing and I just love it.  One of the greatest things about London is the peaceful cohabitation between brand new modern buildings and the ancient remains of the Roman era.  And for some reason, it just works!  Jack asked if we could see if there was a restaurant on the top and there are several.  So, in honor of the Chinese New Year and to celebrate our impending departure, we booked into the Chinese restaurant in the Shard.   Given that it was a completely disappointing meal – and one of the most expensive we have had, I’m going to omit the details.  But the view was extraordinary.  

My favorite old building would have to be the amazing Tower of London. The original structure, the White Castle, was built by William the Conqueror in the 1080s.  One can walk around the outer structure and read about the history without even hiring a guide but, of course, the guided tours are amazing.  Without even paying the price of admission, one can walk around and appreciate the history and architecture.  While the White Castle can be hard to find walking the perimeter, it is clearly visible from these photos taken from the Sky Garden.  Also, it is clearly visible from either the Tower Bridge mid-point or from the London Bridge.  Viewed from a distance, the White Castle is clearly visible.   A word about the Tower…  If you are visiting London and looking for a special treat that few ever enjoy, you can book tickets several months in advance to see the nightly closing of the tower.  The Beefeaters have an entire ceremony of the keys whereby they lock the gates of the Tower of London.  This ceremony is closed to the public except for advance ticket purchase and even requires a dress code.  A simple google search will reveal the details.  Also interesting is having dinner in the tower, which my mother and stepfather once did while traveling here on Tauk.  Mere mortals such as I could only imagine what a privilege that would be.  

The shopping in London, it goes without saying, is world class.  We are not big shoppers, but we can hardly resist a trip down Bond and Regent Street to peruse the windows.  Even for non-shoppers like us, it’s fun to see the lovely baubles and extravagant luxuries.  Of course, Jack fell in love with the world’s largest Lego Store in Leicester Square.  Often there is a line to get into the shop which has the most extraordinary collection of assembled and ready to purchase Lego.  After years of life without Amazon and several other stores which are only a “click” away from your wildest dreams, we are all pretty happy to be back in a place where getting a scale that measures in pounds or a hairdryer with a US plug is no big deal.  

We had an amazing and memorable time in London.  Planning to head next to Portsmouth on the South coast of England and it will likely take a few days to get there, (depending on the weather).  So long to the gorgeous St. Katharine’s Dock and with many many thanks for your kind hospitality.